20 Comments
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Rian Greeff's avatar

Awesome. I once met a Polish cyclist... in South Africa. He cycled all the way.

Pablo Naboso's avatar

Incredible. In 1934 there was a Polish man who did the same. He cycled to South Africa … and back! His name was Kazimierz Nowak. After returning, he died a year later for tropical diseases for which he wasn’t vaccinated nor treated. Sorry the Wikipedia link may exist in Polish only: https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kazimierz_Nowak_(podr%C3%B3%C5%BCnik)

James Graham's avatar

That's *real travel writing,* going where others don't. Some pretty nifty photos, too.

The Eye of Providence probably originates with the Masonic lodges, although it may go further back to one of the metaphysical traditions, Hermes Tristemegistus & Co.

Deniz Guzel's avatar

I did not realise you were Polish! Your piece has encouraged me to venture out of Krakow and Rzeszow (where my mother is from) whenever I visit. I must admit I feel the "just another Prague" comment on how international visitors see Krakow (or alternatively, another stag city). I visited Silesia as a child and cannot recall too much, but clearly, I must go back! Thank you for sharing.

Pablo Naboso's avatar

Thank you Deniz, I appreciate this. Silesia’s beauty is hidden, it is easy to travel there (e.g. for business), skip some fascinating sights and not even realize. Often, the locals don’t have the pride to show you too much. They realised things are important but they think they are only important locally for them. They don’t realise these things are worth showing to a visitor.

Joe's avatar

This reminds me so much of the Anthracite Coal Region of northeastern Pennsylvania. A hundred years ago, its coal heated the entirety of the northeastern United States, its industrial heartland. For a while in the late 20th century it laid derelict, but now is full of empty wild places and partially-cleaned up creeks and rivers. Check out pictures of places like Shamokin, PA, and you’ll see the resemblance.

While it wasn’t divided by political empires, it was divided by business interests from New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, each laying claim to the mineral wealth of the area; mineral wealth that now is of little value, though the Ukraine war has increased demand for anthracite for the first time in not just my, but my father’s lifetime as well. Apparently Ukraine has much of the anthracite in Europe and some of Pennsylvania’s is being shipped there. There’s a remarkable level of support for Ukraine as many people in that part of PA are of Polish and Ukrainian descent.

I will be sure to visit this area in Poland when I get a chance to visit! I know that I’m sick of going to Europe to look at just one damned castle and church after another. Industrial history is much more my speed.

Brad Yonaka's avatar

That was a great article. Playful and pointed. The closest I've been to Katowice is Wrocław, but now I'm intrigued. Interesting what you say about a town not being 'Polish enough'. I feel like that is what Gdansk went through after WWII, where the fleeing German population was replaced by Poles, leaving only their architecture behind.

Egor Korneev's avatar

I enjoyed the piece, Pablo. Unfortunate how a hubris sets in cultural capitals with a belief that provinces have nothing on offer. Yet, I came across most interesting people and ideas away from the cities’ self-important intelligentsia. Glad you like where you live.

Susan Brockman's avatar

I really enjoyed this post. If we make back to Poland, Silesia will be on our list. I do love the "forgotten" towns where few Americans are found. I'm glad the "lead children" were not forgotten and the pioneering doctor gets her credit. Interesting explanation of why Krakow overshadowed Silesia. We were in Krakow for a couple of weeks more than 10 years ago and enjoyed it. Sounds like we would not enjoy it as much today. As you say, the same thing happened to Prague. A much different place then when we visited more than 20 years ago.

Marloes Wardenier's avatar

This is a true invitation to look beyond the obvious. Great piece!

Ella Antonietta's avatar

Thank you for sharing this insight! As i just moved to Krakow I'm looking forward to learning more of the real culture and local spots!

samu blasko's avatar

never thought about visiting sliezsko, but having it put like this, i must admit you have sparked a thought in me :) very enjoyable read, thanks

Caroline Smrstik's avatar

This was lovely, Pablo. The photos awakened my memories of what I love and miss in the east. I rumbled through Silesia several times in the previous century: Jelenie Gora, Opole, Katowice ... on toward Krakow (where no one had yet dreamt of AirBnB) and Zakopane and my beloved Tatras. Once my bionic knee is installed, I will gladly take on your recommended bike route. See you next year!

Damien Stewart's avatar

A great piece Pablo, whilst I would not like to argue with a Polish man about his home city, Krakow is my favourite city in Poland. And alas, I am yet to spend time in Katowice. Same with Bialystock, never been there either. Although I threaten to visit both regularly.

One thing I will say is that in Poland when you meet someone from Silesia, they will let you know.... its always, I am from Silesia before "I am from Poland" ha ha.

Pablo Naboso's avatar

You are kind! As I said, Krakow is certainly nice and charming. I’d never call it inspiring, intriguing, or entrepreneurial. But it’s a nice destination for a retired traveler hahaha. Ps. Don’t forget to visit me next time you travel. I am between the two, krakow and kato

Damien Stewart's avatar

DONE!!! I'll be in Krakow in a couple of weeks. Around 24 May

Chrissy S Ross's avatar

Fascinating. To my shame I previously thought Silesia was not worth a second glance. Thank you for opening my eyes and mind.

Pablo Naboso's avatar

You will never know, until someone tells you! Come and see it for yourself, we’d ride these bikes together

World Stories, Told My Way's avatar

Very interesting. I must visit Poland again one day soon. I have only been to, er, Krakow

Pablo Naboso's avatar

Haha 🙃🙃then you must read to the very, very end